Sitting on your board as a big swell marches into the bay, watching it focus, before rearing up at the take off spot, can be both a beautiful and very intimidating sight. This spot is remote and very beautiful!
The Wave peaks up, making for a committed vertical take off. Make the drop, set up for the barrel then get on the gas as it reels across the shelf. Depending on swell direction, sections link, rewarding the skilled with lifetime barrels. Too much West in the swell sees it closing out abruptly on the shallow end section, sneak out the doggy door to glory or hold on and embrace the close out! Gets shallow on spring lows, a light N-NE wind is ideal as it holds the barrel open.
Makes for an epic celebration as your mates sitting in the channel watch you fly out of the barrel at them and kick off with a well earned fist pump. Truely epic experience! If you get the opportunity to surf here you are one of the lucky ones!
100M LONG WAVE
Reef break OVER Coral BOTTOM